The Flymo DM Petrol Cultivator
by Martin Humphrey 2013, Hertfordshire,
UK.
All about the The Flymo DM Petrol Cultivator. I have created this page because
there is no dedicated resource for the Flymo DM. I have had 2 of these Flymo
"rotavators" and spent a lot of time getting them working. It seems
like a useful machine, not too heavy, fairly easy to transport, and does a job.
Flymo don't make them any more and don't seem to provide any support.
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Flymo DM
Flymo GTA |
The Flymo DM Petrol Cultivator is best described as a rotary cultivator or
tiller, also known as a rotavator or rotovator. Model 9647327-01.
Iit was originally made as the Westwood Gemini with a Villiers or Suffolk
98cc engine, presumably Flymo took it over from Westwood.
An ingenious design, the DM Cultivator
does not have a chassis instead making
use of the engine to attach the handles
on top and the rotating tines underneath.
Produced in the 1990's? Used the ubiquitous
Briggs and Stratton 3HP horizontal
shaft engine as seen on many lawnmowers,
easy to service and to get spares
for. Often sold second hand as Briggs
and Stratton machines because that's
the name on the engine.
A variety of accessories were made
for different tasks.
Flymo are now owned by Husqvarna who also own McCulloch who make a range
of cultivators. I suspect that the Flymo cultivators are the precursors
of the McCulloch range.
The Flymo GLM 5hp Rotavator is the same as a (Norwegian) Norlett rotavator.
It has a wide 30 inch digging width.
There also seem to have been GTM (Tillermate) and DLM models.
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Flymo GLM
Flymo DLM
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If you have any thing to add to this page
about the Flymo DM Cultivator please email
me
If there is any interest I will expand
the site. Would love to know more about
the history of these machines and any tips
for maintaining them.
cultivator
manuals
ENGINE
Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle 3 HP 127 cc
engine.
engine
manual
Spark Problems
Always try a new plug first.
To check for an efficient spark, remove
the spark plug, attach a spark tester to
the plug lead terminal (a tester plug can
be made by opening the gap on a known good
plug to about 3 mm), ensure any stop switches
or mechanism are not active, restrain the
metal body of the test plug against the
engines metal surface away from the spark
plug hole, pull the engine over and look
for a good spark cracking across the oversized
gap.
If there is no spark check the ignition
as follows:
Disconnect the stop wire from the points
at its cut out post (usually with the throttle
bracketry). Repeat the spark test. If a
good spark returns, the problem is with
the stop system. If there is still no spark
then the problem is either with the points/condenser
set (if the engine is an older one with
points) or the coil. The points can be cleaned
or replaced but the best repair would be
to replace the old coil with a new electronic
ignition armature.
To remove starter clutch take out spark
plug, feed nylon rope into cylinder (turn
til piston down) to lock the engine then
grasp rim of clutch with pipe wrench and
turn anticlockwise (right hand thread) avoiding
screw lugs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAGS3oy96iA.
To remove flywheel tap from behind with
wooden mallet. Don't lose the flywheel key!
"The 1980's ushered in the magic black
box, Magnetron™ ignition coil, Briggs
& Stratton's first truly electronic
ignition system. Breaker point ignition
systems for most small air-cooled engine
manufacturers have totally disappeared over
the last 20 years."
My advice, if you have points, cut the
wires and get a coil that doesn't need points.
Taking the flywheel off takes time and effort
and the flywheel key is liable to shear
off after it has been loosened. I got a
magneto from a lawnmower with a B and S
Quattro engine, I think most more recent
B and S lawnmower engines will have one
(with 63mm spaces).
“An
R-clip, also known as an R-pin, R-key, hairpin
cotter pin, hairpin cotter, bridge pin,
hitch pin or spring cotter pin, “
ATTACHMENTS (accessories)
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Wheelbarrow - with front wheels.
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| Tool frame with drilling/harrow?
attachments, weeder attachments and
depth control blade – you need
to replace the front tines with the
solid metal wheels. The bolts are
3/8 Whitworth.
I had to make a few bits to complete
the rig, and I don't know if it is
set up right. |
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Plough attachment (potato
ridger) – you need to replace
the tines with the solid metal wheels
to use this. |
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OTHER MODELS
DM-2 1987-2001 model no 9953350, DLM 9953450
glm 9647350, 9647351, 9953600 GTM 9645140
(1987-2001) electric rotavators
Picture
gallery
LINKS:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en/support/faqs/ignition-system-theory-and-testing
- Briggs and Stratton help
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/index.php
- good forum for engine problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELYbakdsRGU
- starting and running
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAhtNf5GMO8
- wheelbarrow
